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Ethical Conversations

Ethical Conversations: A Talk with Mud Jeans

”It is funny seeing the surprised look on their faces when they have found a perfect pair of jeans. The misconception is that sustainable clothing is not fashionable.” - Bert van Son, CEO and founder, Mud Jeans

18 JULY 2024
Otrium is committed to the mission that all clothing produced should be worn. While no item or fashion brand can be perfectly 'ethical,' there are many areas where brands can make significant improvements. We want to support fashion companies striving for more responsible fashion and empower consumers to understand what this journey entails.
To offer an objective perspective on the responsibility journey of the brands featured on Otrium, we have collaborated with industry rating specialists from Good On You. This partnership makes it easier for our members to find “Ethically rated” items and support brands working to create a better fashion industry. Most brands on our platform are rated by Good On You, and “Ethically rated” items come from those fashion companies with scores of 3/5 (It's a start), 4/5 (Good) or 5/5 (Great). More information about the ratings can be found on this page.
In our Ethical  Conversations series, we’re exploring the approaches of “Ethically rated” brands featured on Otrium. This time, we chatted with Bert, founder of Mud Jeans, and Lea, a member of their sustainability team.
Tell me, who are you, and what is your role at Mud Jeans?
Bert: My name is Bert van Son, and I founded Mud Jeans. With 30 years of experience, I’ve seen fast fashion's negative impact on the environment. This motivated me to seek a better alternative. In 2012, I introduced the "Lease A Jeans" concept, allowing customers to lease jeans and after use return them for recycling. This initiative reduces waste and promotes a circular economy in fashion, enabling customers to renew their wardrobes more sustainably.
Lea: Hi, I'm Lea, and I studied Sustainability Science, Policy & Society at Maastricht University. My passion for fashion and the well-being of people and the planet led me to a career in sustainable fashion. I am happy to be working at Mud Jeans, where I manage all aspects of corporate responsibility. 
Where did it all start for Mud Jeans?
Bert: I've been in the fashion industry for quite some time. I started my career in Taiwan and later in Hong Kong, where I saw the industry transform into something I didn't like—dreadful production processes, poor working conditions, you know the story… Wanting to make a change, I sold my previous company and used the funds to start Mud Jeans. I specifically chose jeans because I realised that to truly do something different, I should focus on an item that is widely worn and has one of the most challenging supply chains.
What sustainability initiatives do Mud Jeans have?
Bert: One of our standout initiatives is our circular economy model. After customers have worn out their jeans, they can return them to us. We then send these pairs to Spain, where factories break the items down into their original raw materials. We reuse this bluish cotton, combined with new organic cotton, to create our jeans. Compared to industry-standard jeans, our production process uses significantly less water—about 25 minutes of showering versus 7.5 hours for a regular pair. Also, transparency is one of our core values: we strongly believe all companies should be truthful about their processes.
Lea: Additionally, we release a sustainability report and conduct a life cycle assessment (LCA) annually to provide detailed insights into our practices. Last year, we introduced an innovative LCA-based approach that evaluates our jeans against a hypothetical product with similar manufacturing processes but without more conscious materials.  This method goes beyond comparing our jeans against industry standards and allows us to make more accurate impact assessments. What's more, our approach to sustainability goes beyond environmental concerns and considers social responsibility. We prioritise fair wages and good working conditions throughout our supply chain so that our practices benefit both people and the planet.
How do you involve consumers in sustainability?
Bert: Since 2012, we've encouraged consumers to return their jeans after they’ve worn them out. This concept of retaining ownership of materials and offering jeans on a leasing basis demonstrates our commitment to being different. While we primarily appeal to environmentally conscious consumers—which we call dark green customers—we want to reach a broader audience, as more responsible purchasing benefits everyone.
Lea: We aim to share the Mud Jeans story with all segments and sell our jeans to every consumer. However, effectively communicating our efforts to various audiences remains an ongoing challenge. You don’t want to bore people with the same story, but you can’t keep quiet either. 
What sets Mud Jeans apart?
Bert: At Mud Jeans, circularity is at the core of everything we do. We're dedicated to reclaiming our products after use and creating a closed-loop, post-consumer waste denim process named “Denim Reborn”. Also, initiatives like "Lease a Jeans" and maintaining close relationships with our supply chain partners show our commitment.
What is the biggest challenge for you when it comes to sustainability?
Bert: We want to inform people about everything we do while also attracting them with the good fit and nice wash. Balancing this desire to communicate our efforts with the need to appeal to consumers is a challenge. Moreover, being a volume-driven industry, maintaining competitive prices while adhering to better practices remains an ongoing struggle.
Lea: I also see societal challenges, which are increased by rapidly changing consumer trends. People see so much fashion content on TikTok and Instagram that they feel they need to have it all. We’re trying to come up with innovative solutions to keep up with the trends sustainably, but it is rather difficult!
What are the main goals for Mud Jeans?
Bert: Our ultimate goal is to produce jeans made entirely from post-consumer waste. While we've made significant steps and currently incorporate up to 40% recycled materials into our jeans, achieving 100% recycled denim remains our ambition.
What is going well in the fashion industry?
Lea: Positive developments happening in this industry are increased sustainability regulations. Regulations play a crucial role in forcing companies in the fashion industry to adopt more responsible practices, closing the gap between awareness and action.
And what really needs to change?
Bert: For the industry to change, a collective effort involving manufacturers, government intervention, and consumer behaviour change is necessary. All three need to contribute to the transformation. Also, encouraging responsible production practices, enacting supportive legislation, and fostering a shift in consumer mindset are all important measures.
Lea: Examples like Renewcell's bankruptcy show the difference between consumer intentions and actions. Despite people wanting change regarding sustainability, there needs to be more consumer engagement to support innovation, emphasising the need for efforts across those three fronts Bert mentioned [i.e. encouraging responsible production practices, enacting supportive legislation, and fostering a shift in consumer mindset].
What is the biggest misconception about sustainable clothing?
Bert: One prevalent misconception about sustainable clothing is that it is not fashionable. People are often pleasantly surprised by the quality and looks of our jeans, despite them being labelled as more sustainable. Some consumers are just not used to purchasing more sustainable products and associate them with a hippie or bohemian aesthetic. 
Name a change consumers could make to become more conscious.
Bert: The most important adjustment consumers should make is to prioritise quality over quantity. Buying one high-quality pair of jeans is more conscious than purchasing multiple low-quality options. Consumers should think of spending money like voting with their wallets and supporting companies that are doing something good for people and the planet. 
P.S. TIP: Watch the documentary "True Cost" and read the book "Doughnut Economy" for further insights into sustainable practices.

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Ethical Conversations

Ethical Conversations: A Talk with Fabienne Chapot

Otrium continually works towards the mission that all clothing produced should be worn. There is no such thing as the perfect, “ethical” item or fashion brand: it’s not a black-and-white topic. There are, however, a lot of improvements brands can work on. We want to support brands that do better and empower you to understand what this entails. To provide an objective third-party perspective, we have collaborated with industry rating specialists Good On You since 2021. By doing so, we want to make it easier for our members to find items that are labelled “Ethically rated” and support brands that are working to create a better fashion industry. Most brands on our platform are rated through Good On You. “Ethically rated” qualified items come from brands rated 3/5 (It's a start), 4/5 (Good) or 5/5 out (Great). Find more information about Good On You ratings on undefined. And now, in this Ethical Conversations series, we’re speaking to “Ethically rated” brands carried by Otrium to find out more about their approach. This time, we chatted to Geertje van Bavel, Head of Impact at Fabienne Chapot.Tell me: who are you?My name is Geertje. I studied International Business, and after working at L’Oréal for 10 years, the topic of sustainability started to itch more and more. I wanted to start a more sustainable company in the beauty industry, and founded a platform called Green Beauty Market. We offered more conscious beauty products. I stopped after 4 years, however my interest for sustainability grew nonetheless. Currently, I am driving the topic at Fabienne Chapot and I am truly enjoying it! The brand is aware of the fact that they are active in a polluting industry and wants to make a difference. Not in a naive way or pledging we are perfect, but rather that we're doing our best. Where did it start with Fabienne Chapot?Fabienne saw the grey and dull business world and started FAB in 2012, bringing colour, femininity, and bold statements with bags and accessories. A few years later, in 2016, she gave the company a twist and added adult premium ready-to-wear clothing. The same ingredients from back then are still present: colour, prints, statements, and handmade. What sustainability initiatives does Fabienne Chapot have?We have quite a lot in place, and these are worth mentioning the most:  undefinedundefinedundefinedHow do you involve consumers?Our community likes to be involved. ReLove and our clothing swap event were received above expectations by our customers. I also noticed that our community finds materials important. At Fabienne Chapot we are taking steps to take consumers along in the process of using better materials. An example is viscose from LENZING™ ECOVERO fibres that use at least 50% less water and emit at least 50% less CO2 compared to generic viscose fibres, according to undefined.What’s different about Fabienne Chapot?At Fabienne Chapot we are not afraid, I hope that shows everywhere. When we go for something, we really go for it. We dare to take steps, try new things, involve partners and make investments. In terms of clothing, we try to be different by using daring colourways and prints.What is the biggest challenge for you when it comes to sustainability?The complexity of collecting data like this involves so many and different stakeholders. This is where we aim to make the biggest improvements, and that certainly doesn't happen overnight. However, it is important to enter into partnerships and not be afraid to make mistakes. This is the only way to learn how to improve when you’re innovating.Biggest goals?We have just become a B Corp certified company, and I am so proud of everyone at Fabienne Chapot who was involved! This gives us a framework to continue to improve, as  there is always room for improvement! Looking at materials for example. Ultimately, the goal is to work with 100% more responsible materials. These are materials that have a lower impact on our planet, which is what we need! What is going well in the fashion industry…Well, that is quite a question... A lot of innovations are happening quickly: material innovation, measuring impact, transparency, collaborations between companies, and legislation.… and what REALLY needs to change?There is so much that I can't list it all. But the first thing I think of is the urgency of companies to prioritise people and the environment. There is a long way to go to being perfect, but the mindset, awareness and willingness must be present. What is the biggest misconception about sustainable clothing?That sustainable clothing is only about the environment. It also considers social aspects such as fair labour practices and safe working conditions. Name a change that a consumer could make to become more environmentally conscious.You can do a lot of small and fun things. For example, creating a care guide to wear and maintain the quality of your garment longer. Ultimately, what truly matters is that consumers buy pieces with the intention of wearing it a long time and actually doing so.
Otrium is committed to the mission that all clothing produced should be worn. While no item or fashion brand can be perfectly 'ethical,' there are many areas where brands can make significant improvements. We want to support fashion companies striving for more responsible fashion and empower consumers to understand what this journey entails.To offer an objective perspective on the responsibility journey of the brands featured on Otrium, we have collaborated with industry rating specialists from Good On You. This partnership makes it easier for our members to find “Ethically rated” items and support brands working to create a better fashion industry. Most brands on our platform are rated by Good On You, and “Ethically rated” items come from those fashion companies with scores of 3/5 (It's a start), 4/5 (Good) or 5/5 (Great). More information about the ratings can be found on undefined. In our Ethical  Conversations series, we’re exploring the approaches of “Ethically rated” brands featured on Otrium. This time, we spoke with Nubikk. The brand’s Operations Manager, Inge, and Marketing Manager, Leontine explained how they try to conduct business in a more responsible way.How did Nubikk’s journey towards a more responsible approach begin?It all started with the founder, Daan Baeten. His reason for finding Nubikk was to create durable premium quality shoes. Around 6 years ago, we started accelerating our responsibility efforts, which was encouraged by one of our biggest clients: the Bijenkorf. They only wanted to work together with shoe brands that were audited and certified by several sustainability labels, like LWG or BSCI. At the time, we also became a member of the Leather Working Group (LWG) and encouraged our suppliers to work with certified leather only. What sustainability initiatives does Nubikk have?At Nubikk, we don't want to pretend to be at the forefront. But by weaving sustainability into our DNA, we are taking steps forward every day. Here are a few of our  initiatives:  1. We work on our supply chainWe produce our entire collection in Europe, mostly in Portugal. Also, our factories all adhere to our Code of Conduct and Business Social Compliance Initiative, ensuring that suppliers adhere to environmentally and socially responsible practices, with a particular focus on improving working conditions and labour rights. Moreover, our main leather suppliers are members of the Leather Working Group (LWG) and meet rigorous standards for responsible sourcing and reduced environmental impact.  2. We offer repair servicesWe strive to deliver perfect products, but damages or defects sometimes occur. In such cases, we try to repair the products through one of our experts. Only if repair isn’t possible do we offer an alternative solution. To extend the life of damaged shoes, for example, we provide our customers with eyelets, laces, and other parts. 3. We give returns a second chanceProducts that are returned or exchanged due to minor imperfections are given a second chance through a local sample sale or an external partner.  How do you involve consumers in sustainability?Something small we do is that we encourage our customers to return broken shoes for repairs, instead of throwing away a shoe because of a minor issue. In 2023 we successfully repaired 470 pairs. Next to this, we also provide informative content about our responsibility efforts on our website to help customers make informed decisions. How is Nubikk different from other shoe brands?Our mission statement, "Lightweight is our luxury standard," emphasises comfort and quality. All our shoes, from high-knee boots to sneakers, are lightweight, comfortable, and made from high-quality materials. We see that customers value this approach via their positive reviews. What is the biggest challenge for Nubikk when it comes to sustainability?The number of returns is a big sustainability challenge. Many consumers order two pairs of shoes and return the ones that don’t fit. To solve this, we try to inform our customers as much as possible. We offer a 3D and virtual try-on tool and an extensive Size Advice tool with a sizing chart and guide on our website. And what are your biggest goals?In addition to complying with the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive, we are committed to pursuing our own goals. One major objective is to map the environmental footprint of all our products and be able to show where each component is made. Next to this, our aim is to ensure that all our shoes are 100% LWG-certified. What is going well in the fashion industry?Environmental awareness is increasing within larger companies. Scandals often accelerate this trend. Although such scandals can be unfortunate for the brands involved, they do accelerate greater supply chain transparency.  … and what really needs to change?It’s unfortunate that many fast-fashion brands release excessive amounts of clothing each year. The focus should shift to producing timeless, high-quality pieces. Additionally, the volume of returns and their disposal is alarming. Fortunately, several organisations have developed innovative solutions to address the issue of returns. What is the biggest misconception about sustainable clothing?Many people might believe environmentally conscious clothing is boring, but it’s quite the opposite. A company's challenge is to make its responsibility story aesthetically pleasing.  Name a change that a consumer could make to become more environmentally conscious.When choosing shoes, consumers should opt for the ones that suit them and can be worn in many ways. Once the perfect pair is found, proper care is essential to ensure they last longer.
Otrium is committed to the mission that all clothing produced should be worn. While no item or fashion brand can be perfectly 'ethical,' there are many areas where brands can make significant improvements. We want to support fashion companies striving for more responsible fashion and empower consumers to understand what this journey entails.To offer an objective perspective on the responsibility journey of the brands featured on Otrium, we have collaborated with industry rating specialists from Good On You. This partnership makes it easier for our members to find “Ethically rated” items and support brands working to create a better fashion industry. Most brands on our platform are rated by Good On You, and “Ethically rated” items come from those fashion companies with scores of 3/5 (It's a start), 4/5 (Good) or 5/5 (Great). More information about the ratings can be found on undefined. In our Ethical  Conversations series, we’re exploring the approaches of “Ethically rated” brands featured on Otrium. This time, we sat down with Dante6. Evelyne, the brand’s Co-Founder, and Emily, its Product Development & Sustainability Manager, provided insights into their commitment to responsible business practices. What sustainability initiatives does Dante6 have?Responsibility has been formally integrated into Dante6’s brand strategy and values since 2020. The focus on sustainability has only grown over the last few years, due to new regulations and customers' rising demands. At the moment, we are building a Responsibility Roadmap with our strategy consultant, encompassing our vision, mission, and objectives, which are aligned with the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). Some of our key areas of focus are using more responsible materials and improving the working conditions in the value chain. To ensure the protection of workers’ rights and improve environmental conditions in the supply chain, we are a member of Amfori’s Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI) and the Business Environmental Performance Initiative (BEPI). How do you involve consumers in sustainability?We conduct customer surveys regularly, which consistently show that consumers highly value sustainability. Also, our agents report that our wholesale customers appreciate and recognise our commitment to more ethical production. This is a great confirmation, yet for us, responsibility is a concept which is firmly embedded in our brand values. Therefore, at Dante6, we prioritise responsibility in all aspects of our business, without waiting for customer demand first.  How is Dante6 different from other fashion brands?Dante6 distinguishes itself by empowering women with timeless wardrobe essentials that inspire confidence and complement individual style perspectives. We aspire to make luxury accessible while ensuring comfort and self-expression. What is your biggest challenge?In comparison with conventional materials, more ethical options are often more expensive and generally require high minimum order quantities. We advocate for broader access to improved materials and more attainable prices through continued demand and industry collaboration.  Another challenge is (European) legislation. Practical implementation of packaging regulations, for instance, is taking place on a country level, which is difficult to navigate for a brand like ours, which is active in several European countries. And your biggest goals?For our responsibility policy, we've embraced the 17 UN SDGs, of which we picked 6 that are closest to our brand values. We defined 4 key pillars. As the backbone of our Responsible Policy, our focus is to develop a Responsible Materials Strategy and to support our business partners in ensuring the protection of workers’ rights. Next to that, we commit to the improvement of environmental conditions in the value chain and prioritise data analysis to better forecast production and reduce excess stock. Zooming out: what is going well in the fashion industry?One of the positive shifts in the fashion industry is heightened consumer awareness and advocacy. It’s also remarkable to observe the significant movement towards transparency that we have collectively embraced, particularly during COVID-19. Practices that were previously considered impossible are now embraced. For example, there is now much more openness from our suppliers in their communication about production.  … and what really needs to improve?It would help consumers to be more conscious of the work that has been put into a garment before they buy it. We believe a better understanding of the way garments are produced would help a higher valuation of the product. It could change the Take-Make-Waste approach which is so destructive for the planet.  Brands can take the lead in communicating about this, to inspire their customers and increase their understanding. On a European level, we hope that in the next few years, there will be more clarity in policies and that these policies will apply to all countries alike. This will decrease the hassle companies now have to undergo to abide by all the national laws. Lastly, we hope there will be measures to protect European brands from unfair competition of fast fashion concepts like Shein, which don’t care about healthy or fair working conditions for workers and are destroying the market.  Name a change that a consumer could make to become more environmentally conscious.Consumers can make a significant impact by cherishing their clothing, wearing it with care, minimising washing & machine drying, and donating it to charities once they no longer need the items.  It is so simple, yet effective.

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